Plastic spacer issues?

Many framers pinwheel the spacer strips, which is probably what we should be doing. I still do as I was first taught, though, which is to cut the bottom and top strips full length, then cut the sides to fill in. This way, the whole top is supported by the sides. I suppose that if one was tipped on it's side, in theory a side one could fall, but so far, that hasn't happened. Also, a few other notes. When using adhesive spacers or mat strips, we cut the glass 1/16" smaller than the frame, rather than the usual 1/8". (For Frame Space, like Joe uses, it needs the standard 1/8", to allow for the plastic that slips on the outside of the glass.) We cut the mat or foam core this size, as well, so more of it is held by the spacer. With metal frames that have spacers, we don't use spring clips, because that can sometimes have weird effects. Instead, we fill out to depth with more foam core. (And this is tangential, but we do the same when using acrylic in metal frames, as otherwise, the spring clips would put too much pressure on it). If you know every bit of this, please forgive the long note, but am writing in case some bit of it helps. And Joe said, much trouble is avoided by using Frame Space. I just mostly use other things.

Wishing you well, and please let us know if you figure out what caused it.

Hi, Echo. We use mostly adhesive spacers or stripping out with mat as you described. We do have Frame Space, and have used it some. It's a great product, though, so if you haven't tried it, you might want to. Interestingly, in all the years I've used adhesive spacers, I've never had one come back for adhesive failure. Could be blind luck, but here are a few questions your thread brings to mind. One is, what brand of adhesive spacers you're using. Secondly, do you live where they either freeze on the way to your shop, in your shop, or at the customers? If, for example, customers are leaving them in freezing buildings, or where it's extremely hot, perhaps that has an affect on the adhesive. Last winter, a tube of it froze on our delivery truck, and by the time it arrived, the release strip had come away from each strip in several places. When the strips warmed up at the shop and expanded in length again, it went back to looking like normal. I suppose extremes of temp change in the frame might do this, as well. The last question is both how you cut the strips and the way that pressure is applied in the frame.Many framers pinwheel the spacer strips, which is probably what we should be doing. I still do as I was first taught, though, which is to cut the bottom and top strips full length, then cut the sides to fill in. This way, the whole top is supported by the sides. I suppose that if one was tipped on it's side, in theory a side one could fall, but so far, that hasn't happened. Also, a few other notes. When using adhesive spacers or mat strips, we cut the glass 1/16" smaller than the frame, rather than the usual 1/8". (For Frame Space, like Joe uses, it needs the standard 1/8", to allow for the plastic that slips on the outside of the glass.) We cut the mat or foam core this size, as well, so more of it is held by the spacer. With metal frames that have spacers, we don't use spring clips, because that can sometimes have weird effects. Instead, we fill out to depth with more foam core. (And this is tangential, but we do the same when using acrylic in metal frames, as otherwise, the spring clips would put too much pressure on it). If you know every bit of this, please forgive the long note, but am writing in case some bit of it helps. And Joe said, much trouble is avoided by using Frame Space. I just mostly use other things.Wishing you well, and please let us know if you figure out what caused it.