Ferulic Acid: A Multifunctional Star Ingredient in Cosmetics
Ferulic acid is a phenolic acid extracted from cinnamic acid. It is named after the plant of the genus Ferula. It has strong antioxidant activity, whitening and photoprotection effects. It is widely used in the cosmetics field. In recent years, it has been favored by cosmetic brands and is often used in combination with other ingredients. It has also been innovated in dosage form and packaging.
What is Ferulic Acid?
Ferulic acid, with the chemical name 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid and the chemical formula C10H10O4, is a phenolic acid extracted from cinnamic acid. Ferulic acid gets its name from plants of the genus Ferula, which belongs to the 170 herbaceous plant species in the Apiaceae family of the Angiospermae. Ferulic acid exists in many plants, including grains (oats, rye, corn), the bark of some trees (pine, fir), fruits (rhubarb, walnut), vegetables (spinach), and coffee. Ferulic acid produced by Xi'an Green Spring uses rice bran as the raw material and is obtained with high purity through a refining process.
(Figure 1: Ferulic Acid Production Process)
Due to its strong antioxidant activity and preservative effect, ferulic acid is widely used in pharmaceuticals, pesticides, health products, cosmetic raw materials, and food additives.
The Efficacy of Ferulic Acid
Ferulic acid is favored by the cosmetics industry because of its strong oxidation resistance and the ability to inhibit the activity of tyrosinase. Some researchers have stated that in addition to being able to inhibit reactive oxygen species, scavenge free radicals, and suppress lipid peroxidation, ferulic acid can also chelate protonated metal ions (such as Cu(II) or Fe(II)) and inhibit the activity of enzymes related to free radicals.
In cosmetics, ferulic acid can also be used as a whitening agent and a skin photoprotectant. Ferulic acid has a good ultraviolet absorption near 290-330nm, and the ultraviolet rays in the wavelength range of 305-310nm are the most likely to induce skin spots. Therefore, ferulic acid can inhibit skin aging, reduce the formation of spots, and whiten the skin, so it is widely used in cosmetics. Ferulic acid contains a highly conjugated system and has a strong absorption of ultraviolet rays, which can effectively capture oxygen-containing free radicals, such as ·oH. Due to its numerous resonance isomers, its action time is long. Adding 5.15mmol/L can inhibit lipid oxidation by 70.9%, which has the same activity as superoxide dismutase. Ferulic acid is an effective photostabilizer with an anti-phototoxic effect and is widely used in sunscreen products; Ferulic acid can form esters with polyhydroxy compounds to improve water solubility, such as glycerol, cyclodextrin esters, etc., and its antioxidant and ultraviolet absorption functions remain unchanged;
In addition, the antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects of ferulic acid have also been verified in some studies. Research shows that ferulic acid also has the effects of stimulating hair growth and darkening hair, so it is also applied to shampoo and hair care products.
Diversified Applications - Composite Formulas of Ferulic Acid and Other Ingredients
Although the antioxidant effect of a single ferulic acid is also quite excellent, it still has some inevitable problems. For example, in terms of stability, ferulic acid is chemically active and easily oxidized, and it will also degrade due to the influence of pH value and temperature. Therefore, in order to enhance the activity of the ingredients and the stability of the formula, ferulic acid is often used in combination with other ingredients, and some compound ingredient combinations have even become classics.
Stable Formula: The "CEF" Combination
Among the many combinations of ferulic acid, the "CEF" combination is the most famous. In 2005, researchers at Duke University in the United States found that ferulic acid can improve the chemical stability of vitamins (C + E). At the same time, applying a solution composed of 0.5% ferulic acid, 15% vitamin C, and 1% vitamin E topically to the skin increased the skin photoprotection effect by 4-8 times under sunlight exposure. As a stable antioxidant combination, the combined use of the three has enhanced their efficacy. With the release of this research result, the SkinCeuticals CEF Serum was officially launched and has since become a classic anti-aging essence that has been selling well until now. In the SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF Serum, the combination of vitamin C + ferulic acid + phloretin is used. SkinCeuticals' research has found that phloretin is not only an effective antioxidant but also can increase the stability of vitamin C and ferulic acid in the formula, as well as the photoprotection effect on the skin.
In addition to SkinCeuticals, many other brands also follow the "CEF" combination. For example, Perricone MD, a functional skin care brand established by dermatologist Nicholas Perricone, M.D., launched a Vitamin C + Ferulic Acid Brightening Serum, which uses a total concentration of approximately 20% vitamin C and vitamin C ester derivatives, and adds ferulic acid and vitamin E derivatives.
In addition, skin care brands such as Paula's Choice, Timeless, and Cosmetic Skin Solution have also developed similar products.
Synergistic Combinations of Ferulic Acid
Ferulic Acid and Multiple Acids: In 2007, researchers from L'Oréal published an article titled "Application of Hydroxy Acids on the Skin: Characteristics of C8-Lipohydroxy Acid" in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. The article introduced L'Oréal's patented ingredient C8-lipoic acid (C8-LHA) and mentioned that adding a "stratum corneum separating agent" (such as lipohydroxy carbon compounds) to ferulic acid can enhance its efficacy. In L'Oréal's new Pure White Essence, this combination is used. The product adopts a dual-tube design. The inner tube contains 7.6ml of 0.5% ferulic acid, and the outer tube contains 30ml of the whitening ingredient 377. At the same time, niacinamide and the combination of "capryloyl salicylic acid LHA + papain + caffeine" are added.
Ferulic Acid and Resveratrol: Both ferulic acid and resveratrol are considered truly effective antioxidant ingredients, and both can be used for skin whitening. This combination is also a typical synergistic whitening combination and is used in many products that focus on antioxidant and whitening effects. The Ordinary once launched a high-concentration antioxidant essence, and the formula used 3% resveratrol + 3% ferulic acid.
Ferulic Acid and Retinol: The combination of ferulic acid and retinol can enhance the anti-aging effect, and ferulic acid can appropriately reduce the irritating effect of retinol, neutralize the free radicals generated by retinol, and reduce sun damage. The American skin care brand Dr. Dennis Gross launched a retinol + ferulic acid series of products, which consists of two types of retinol (trans-retinol and encapsulated retinol), bakuchiol, rambutan, and ferulic acid, focusing on anti-wrinkle and spot-lightening effects.
In conclusion, in the application of cosmetics, ferulic acid can not only assist other antioxidants, but it can also fight against free radicals and photoaging. Its wide application well reflects the scientific nature of the compounding of cosmetics.
Diversified Applications - Upgrades in Product Formulations and Packaging
In the L'Oréal Revitalift Laser Renew Ampoule Concentrate set, ferulic acid is made into freeze-dried tablets. This completely water-free form is more conducive to maintaining the activity of the ingredients. The freeze-dried ferulic acid, together with the hyaluronic acid and vitamin C derivatives in the ampoule, plays the role of brightening the skin tone and fighting against wrinkles.
The Lancôme Advanced Génifique Serum stores the ferulic acid solution separately in a blue dropper to maintain its activity. In this product, ferulic acid works in synergy with bifida ferment lysate, caffeine, and centella asiatica extract, making it more suitable for sensitive skin.
