The company has a group of cooperation teams engaged in the stained glass beads industry for many years, with dedication, innovation spirit and service awareness, and has established a sound quality control and management system to ensure product quality.
Thanks to a wide assortment of patterns, molds and instruction, its easy for hobbyists to make Tiffany style lampshades. We should mention right away that when we refer to Tiffany Style Lamps, were talking about lamps that are made on a mold (or form the terms are interchangeable). If a mold isn't needed, the lamp would be considered a Flat Panel Lamp . Making Tiffany style lamps is actually quite similar to making stained glass windows. The main difference is that after youve cut and foiled the pieces for your lamp, you solder them together on a mold, instead of on a flat surface. This is what gives the lamp its rounded shape. Most of the pieces in a Tiffany lamp need to be quite small to conform to the rounded mold. Thats why this type of shade, by its nature, has a considerable number of pieces. Most popular designs have about 150400 pieces, although some require nearly 2000. Obviously, another difference between Tiffany lamps and most windows is the amount of time required to complete the project. These lamps can be time consuming. The only supplies you need to get started on your first Tiffany style lampshade are a mold, a pattern and some glass. As far as tools go,
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After I finish soldering, there are little splatters of solder stuck all over my panel. How do I clean these up? Doesnt it look just terrible! You wonder if it will ever get clean. But dont worry, it really isnt as bad as it looks. Any of the splatters that are not connected to a solder seam can usually be removed with your fingernail (after the solder has cooled!) or a soft stick, like a craft stick (top left). Be careful not to use anything sharp that could scratch the glass. This includes most steel wool (except 0000). Most scrubbing pads for dishes will work, but you should try them on a piece of scrap glass. You dont want to scratch your project now! Any splatters that are connected to a solder seam will need to be refluxed and melted off. Trying to lift it off with your soldering iron will generally leave a peak, so youll have to melt it into the solder seam at that area. If the splatter is too large to melt into the seam, youll have to melt the seam and remove the excess by quickly pulling it off to the side with your soldering ion. You may notice that you get more splattering when soldering the second side of your project. Thats because the flux gets t
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The grinding head on my grinder is frozen on the motor shaft. How do I remove it? You may find that you can move the grinder head down, but not up and off, the shaft. This is due to the shaft becoming larger for one of two reasons. First, glass, dust and debris accumulate on the shaft. This coating builds up and makes the shaft larger. The second possibility is a nick or scar on the shaft, causing the same thing. In either case, push the bit down to get it out of the way. Then, using a fine steel wool, gently polish the motor shaft (with the motor running) for about a minute. The bit will usually then just lift right off! If this attempt does not work, you can apply an anti-seize liquid or spray (such as WD-40) onto the grinding head and motor shaft. Wait 10 or 12 hours and try removing the bit. As a last resort, you can try using a faucet handle/washer remover (from a friendly plumber or hardware store). This tool is used by placing the center of the remover on top of the motor shaft and the pullers beneath the outer edges of the bottom of the grinding head. Here are a few things you can do to help prevent your grinding head from becoming frozen onto the motor
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My panels always grow, even though I use pattern shears. Should the pieces, once cut and ground, fit in the white part of the pattern leaving the black lines to represent lead or foil? That is exactly where the pieces should fit. But as you have found out, sometimes thats easier said than done. Lets take a look at all the places your pieces can grow: 1) Making a copy of your pattern for cutting out pattern pieces. First, determine if the line width on your pattern is appropriate for copper foil or lead. When tracing the pattern, try a few different felt pens until you find one that is the appropriate width for the technique you are using. The wrong width pen may cause the pattern pieces to be either too big, or too small. A good way to determine the appropriate width is to make some test cuts using your pattern shears. (There are two sizes of shears, one for lead and one for copper foil.) 2) Cutting out the pattern pieces. Using the appropriate pattern shears, remove the black line (which represents the foil or lead). If you dont use pattern shears, be sure to cut the entire black line away. 3) Tracing your pattern pieces onto the glass. Once your pattern
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Does using a wider foil on my project make it stronger? Your project may be a little bit stronger with a wider foil since a wider solder line will tend to keep a seam from bending or flexing more than a narrower one. However, its not enough of a difference to be a major consideration in choosing a foil width for your project. The more likely reasons for choosing one foil width over another are: as a design feature. You may want wider or narrower solder lines in certain areas of your project. to account for thicker or thinner glass. Youll need to choose an appropriate width of foil to have your solder line remain a consistent width. If you think strength or structure is a problem, some reinforcing other than just a wider foil is going to be necessary. For minor reinforcing, ask your supplier for a reinforcing strip. These thin metal ribbons come on spools and can be used as an unobtrusive structural reinforcement. They are placed between foiled glass pieces before soldering. Running a bead of solder over the reinforcing strip hides it completely. Reprinted with permission from Stained Glass News. All rights reserved. Image pictur
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Did you know that you can "sandwich" fabric (or paper) between glass just like you do with pressed flowers? It sure opens up a lot of possibilities for creating one-of-a-kind projects! Here's how: 1 Cut two pieces of thin clear glass (ideally, single strength or thinner) to match your pattern piece. Dull the edges of each piece, if necessary, with a fine grinder bit or scythe stone. 2 Carefully clean the surfaces of these pieces that will be on the inside of the sandwich. Once you have sandwiched the fabric inside the glass, you won't be able to clean the glass again. 3 Cut a piece of fabric to match the glass pieces you cut. 4 To create your sandwich, place the fabric on the bottom piece of glass (clean side up). Add the top piece of glass (clean side down). Now hold your sandwich together with a couple of heavy-duty rubber bands. (This is why you dulled the edges of the glass…sharp edges could cut through rubber bands.) 5 Apply a piece of copper foil to both pieces of glass at the same time, removing the rubberbands as necessary. You will likely need wider than average foil, depending how thin your glass is and how thick your fabric (or pa
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I may be the only person this happens to, but why does the foil sticky-back goop squish out onto the glass when I solder? Nice description. The sticky-back goop is the adhesive that holds the copper foil to the glass. The reason that it squishes out is because it is melting from getting too hot. This is a common problem for people just learning to solder. It takes practice to lay a nice bead of solder. Beginners usually need to go back over the bead several times to make it neat. In this case, the entire area that you are soldering is getting heated up which may be causing the adhesive to melt. Try letting the area cool down before you fix up the solder bead. If you are lucky enough to lay a perfect bead of solder on the first try (good for you!), the melting problem may be caused by the temperature of your soldering iron. If you are using a rheostat with your iron, turn it down a little bit. If you arent, maybe you should be. Ask your supplier to help you decide on the best approach for your type of iron. If none of this helps, you may want to try moving your iron along a little more quickly when you solder. Reprinted with permission from Stained Glass News. All
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When cutting out a pattern, where do you cut? With the proper scissors, is it on the line or left or right of the line? If, by proper scissors, you mean the three-bladed pattern shears, you want to cut by placing the center blade of the shears right on pattern line. The two outside blades will then cut the pattern on either side of the center blade. This removes a small strip of paper between each of the pattern pieces. You need to make sure youre using the right shears for the method of construction youve decided to use. Foil shears allow for two thicknesses of copper foil. Lead shears have a thicker center blade which allows for the heart of lead came. If you are using regular scissors (that dont have the extra blade) you will need to cut twice, once on each side of the line, for your pattern to be accurate. Reprinted with permission from Stained Glass News. All rights reserved.
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Heres how to safely connect your torch to the work table. 1. Collect the hardware. Youll need an L-bracket, one or two large adjustable hose clamps (big enough to fit around the Map gas tank) and a C-clamp (if you dont want to screw into your work surface). 2. Attach the L bracket . Screw the bracket directly into the table on the surface. If you prefer not to screw directly into the table, you can use a C-clamp to secure the bracket. Make sure it is tight enough to keep the bracket from slipping. 3. Secure the tank with hose clamps. Place both large adjustable hose clamps behind the vertical leg of the L-bracket before screwing the L-bracket to the table front. Place the MAPP gas into the hose clamps and turn the screws until the clamps are snug around the MAPP gas cylinder. Using two clamps will prevent the MAPP gas tank from tipping. Reprinted with permission from Stained Glass News. All Rights Reserved.
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When I found Cindy Jenkins book Making Glass Beads back in 1998, I was immediately hooked on the idea of making glass beads. Id never seen handmade glass beads nor had I ever seen anyone make one. I was absolutely fascinated and I still am! Back then, the information was tough to find, but its much more popular now. I hope the following information will ease you into the fun world of making your own glass beads. Glass beadmaking is probably one of the easiest mediums to get started in when it comes to the tools and equipment you will need. Lets start by looking at the basic equipment: Torch A good beginning torch is the Hot Head Torch which was made specifically for beadmaking. It burns hot and clean and runs off of a small MAPP gas tank (see description below). Work Surface Find an old table or desk. Youll want to cover the work area with a nonflammable surface. You can use a cookie sheet, a sheet of stainless steel, or a ceramic or marble tile to top your work area. Connector for Torch To connect the torch to the work surface, you will need an L bracket and two large adjustable hose clamps (to fit the diameter of the Mapp gas tank and connect the tank to
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I really enjoy stained glass, but after I work on a project for a while, I get stiff and sore. What am I doing wrong? We all enjoy stained glass and most of us find it to be a relaxing hobby. But did you ever finish a project, step back to look at it and realize that your back hurt, or your hands feel tight, or you have a splitting headache? Did you know that many of these symptoms can be avoided by applying a few simple rules of ergonomics. You most likely have heard the word, but did you know that it’s just a fancy way of saying, “fit the task to the person?” There are many ways to accomplish just that, and you’d be surprised how simple it really is. Most people are so intent on what they are doing (enjoying our favorite hobby!) that they don’t pay attention to how they are doing it. Let’s explore some things that you can do to make your glass hobby even more enjoyable. Here are some general guidelines: • Practice correct posture at all times. We know it’s easier said than done, but you’ll feel better and be able to work longer if you do. • Any time you hold or repeat a position for an extended period of ti
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Can you please tell me the correct way to mitre the lead for diamonds? Diamonds can be tricky. This diagram shows the way we would go about cutting the lead for a diamond. We find the easiest way to decide where to mitre the lead is by drawing lines on the diamond connecting the opposite points. Then, put a piece of lead on the glass and extend that line onto the lead. Now remove the lead and cut it where you marked. Replace it on the glass, lining it up where it belongs and mark the other end of that piece of lead. Cut it, replace it, and continue until all of the pieces of lead are cut. Reprinted with permission from Stained Glass News . All rights reserved.
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I am about to set up my new workshop. I was just wondering what you think are the most important things to include? Since every situation is different, we cant give you specific answers, but here are some things that you should give some thought to. We think that the two most important things in a workshop are safety and comfort. You obviously want everything in your workshop to be as safe as possible. Ideally, you will want to have: proper ventilation, plenty of lighting, safe storage areas for glass and chemicals (do you have children?), grounded electrical connections, no extension cords, safe disposal for glass and supplies (trash cans as opposed to plastic bags), and easy to clean surfaces (no carpet on the floor). Comfort is the next most important consideration. The height of your work surface is very important. If you arent comfortable, you wont be able to work as long as youd like. If you arent sure of the most comfortable height for you, use your house as a guide. You know whether you prefer to work standing up or sitting down. If you like to work sitting down, measure the height of the tables in your house where you like to work. If you always pay your bi
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How can I tell if a piece of glass is cracked? Did you ever notice the workers in your local glass shop tapping on a sheet of glass before they move it? They do that to see if it has any cracks. Cracked glass has a very different sound when tapped than intact glass does. This will be the best way to tell if your glass is broken. However, you should try it out on some other sheets before you try it on a piece that you think may be broken. Once you have heard a cracked piece, you will know what it sounds like. Hold the sheet from the top edge with one hand. Hold it out and away from your feet, just in case. Gently tap the sheet with one of your knuckles. A solid sheet of glass with no cracks will have a solid, clear ringing sound. A sheet with a crack will have kind of a buzzing, vibrating or tinkling sound. Reprinted with permission from Stained Glass News . All rights reserved.
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In my reading I keep seeing mentions of tinning. What is it, and how do I do it? Tinning is the term used to describe the action of putting a thin coat of solder over something else, for instance copper foil, a brass vase cap, or a soldering iron tip. One reason may be to protect the metal from the air, which is usually in reference to a soldering iron tip. The other purpose may be to color the metal underneath, which we’ll address here. You may have seen it suggested that you tin all exposed copper foil on the surface of a panel before running a solder bead. (You will need to apply flux before tinning and again before running the bead.) Some people feel that this allows them to run the final bead more easily because all of the foil edges are already covered. Other people prefer to skip this step and run the finish solder bead directly on the raw copper foil. You should try both ways to see which gives you better results. Sometimes you will be instructed to tin the outer edge of a small project, like a suncatcher. In this case, the purpose is to color the outer copper foil edges. Tinning adds no strength to speak of, so your goal is to allow the edge to accept patin
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I want to make some copper foil and lead projects for use outside. How do I protect them from the elements? If you construct your project using the lead technique, there isnt anything else you need to do. The cementing process weatherproofs the project. If you use the copper foil technique, you will want to make sure that there is something to prevent the copper foil from pulling away from the outer edges of the project when it gets wet. This can be accomplished by using a rigid metal channel (zinc, copper or brass) or by soldering a reinforcing wire around the perimeter of the piece. Another thing you should consider is using mosaic techniques. Either the direct or indirect methods are great for outdoor projects. Your supplier will have information on these techniques if you are unfamiliar with them. Whatever technique you choose to employ, it is best to bring your projects indoors for the winter if it gets cold enough to freeze in your area. While some projects may survive freezing, its better to be safe than sorry. Reprinted with permission from Stained Glass News . All rights reserved.
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1. Make the glass strips as wide as you'd like your mosaic chunks to be. Strips about 1/2" to 3/4 " usually work well. 2. Snip small pieces off the strip. Aiming your mosaic cutter straight across the strip will produce "squares" and "rectangles." Aiming the cutter at an angle (the same angle each time you cut) will give you "diamonds." A combination of aiming straight across the strip and at alternating angles will produce "triangles." 3. Once you've aimed the cutter, just squeeze the handles until a piece of glass breaks off. Or, you can snip pieces off a larger piece of glass. Cut near the edge and work towards the middle. This will produce random "moon" shaped pieces, which you can use to fill in small areas of background. They also make nice leaves.
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1. Make sure that your pieces are clean and dry. Cut a piece of clear contact paper, remove the backing and lay it sticky-side-up over the pattern. 2. This is a perfect way to hold cut glass, globs, jewels, or marbles in place for tack soldering. As you can see in the photo, you can even move the sheet around and, if you are careful, you shouldn’t disturb the glass at all. 3. Tack solder the pieces to each other as you normally would. Then, remove the contact paper and finish soldering the front before turning the project over and soldering the back. Reprinted with permission from Stained Glass News. All rights reserved.
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I have some questions about Lead-Free Solder. Does it tarnish over time? Can you use patina on it? Does it flow like regular solder? Is it better than regular solder? We are sure that you arent the only one with these questions. Lets start with the question of whether or not its better than regular solder. Since the harm from lead is caused by ingestion, any project that will come in contact with food or food containers should be made with lead-free solder. In addition, anything that is handled, like jewelry or kaleidoscopes, should be made with lead-free solder. Hands have a terrible habit of making it into the mouth before they get washed! So, yes it is better than regular solder in these situations. As far as working with solder, you should be diligent about cleaning your hands after touching any solder. Dont eat, drink, smoke, or do anything while working that will cause you to ingest solder, regardless of what type you are using. So how does lead-free solder differ from regular solder? That depends on your definition of regular solder. The most popular solder used in copper foil work is 60/40 (60% tin, 40% lead). The other option is 50/50 (even amounts of tin
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If you have any questions on stained glass beads. We will give the professional answers to your questions.